Masterflex Differential Pressure Flowmeter, Mass, 100 L/min Gases

Masterflex – Item # EW-32908-75

Max Pressure (PSI)145
Min Flow Rate (LPM)1
Max Flow Rate (LPM)100
Min Flow Rate (mL/min)1000
Max Flow Rate (mL/min)100000
Wetted Materials 302 and 303 SS, Viton®, silicone RTV, glass-reinforced nylon, aluminum

I think one of my favorite states of mind is something I call appreciative bafflement: A state of confusion so deep and profound that you’re genuinely impressed and appreciate the efforts taken to make such confusing, deeply fucked decisions. The Lancia Gamma, especially the fastback Berlina version, is a car full of this sort of bafflement. Let’s talk about this lovely weirdo. //

the engines themselves were pretty good, save for the one ridiculous Achilles’ heel that is the initial source of my gleeful bafflement: They decided to drive the power steering fluid pump off of one of the two camshafts — you know, the things that open and close the cylinder valves.

If you start up your cold engine with your steering wheel turned all the way to one side or the other, the load from the power steering pump could be enough to break the camshaft/timing belt, which would make the left bank of cylinders completely lunch the top end of the engine, leaving you stranded and soon to be broke. //

Normally, ancillaries like the alternator or A/C compressor or power steering pump are driven off the crankshaft pulley. I can’t think of any other car that drives a pump off the camshaft and has a cam belt setup like this, and here’s why, according to the Gamma mavens over at Lancia Gamma Consortium:

Gammas have an unenviable reputation when it comes to their toothed camshaft drive belt, and not without reason! The camshaft serving the nearside (left- hand) pair of cylinders also drives the power steering pump. A lack of development, in early cars in particular, showed itself when unsuspecting owners would start their Gammas on a cold morning with the steering on full lock. This would cause the cambelt to break / jump with the load from the steering pump, resulting in one pair of cylinders firing-up whilst the other pair tried to destroy themselves, at the least causing bent valves. Later models have revised belt tensioners, but are still known to suffer from this problem.

The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.

The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects