Along a single road cutting across the heart of Iraq, you can see where people first learned to write, use maths and invent the wheel.

"This is not a scenic drive," said James Willcox, of adventure travel specialist Untamed Borders. "But what's incredible about Route 1 is where it takes you: to the birthplace of some of the world's earliest civilisations, the home of many of humankind's greatest innovations."

Willcox, who was charged with logistics and security for my journey, was briefing me before I embarked on a 530km, two-day road trip from Basra to Baghdad. My trip would be using Iraq's first and longest freeway, the 1,200km-long Route 1, as a conduit to explore the heart of ancient Mesopotamia. Though the region has experienced decades of recent conflict, it was also once home to a series of illustrious historical empires (the Babylonians, Assyrians and Sumerians to name a few), and Willcox reassured me that the journey would be unforgettable so long as I followed some simple rules: "Keep a low profile, dress conservatively and don't photograph any of the armed checkpoints," he said.